Dressing Your Best: Step 1

Dressing Your Best: Step 1

by "Dad" Dan Loughin

So, you’ve read the several posts on here about dressing well, (if you haven't, search for the key word "dress" on the blog, and you'll find them) and you’ve decided that you want to start yourself on the right track to achieve this.  However, there’s probably one question that’s crossed your mind: you’ve read so many posts here about suits, shoes, and ties that you don’t know where the heck to start.  We’re here to help you with that.

The first step is to figure out what you want to do for a living.  A chef will not need the same wardrobe as a banker.  There really are 4 sets of wardrobes: The Constant Professional – those who choose to work in a profession that requires them to wear a suit every day to work; The Business Owner – those who are going to be in front of clients for long periods, but the nature of their industry doesn’t necessarily require them to be in a suit every day; The Uniform Man – those who work in an industry (i.e. vehicle repair) that requires a specific uniform to perform work requirements; and The Casual Creative – those who absolutely never need to wear a suit except to a wedding or funeral. There is no shame in choosing one profession over another – you just need to know, so that you know what you need as your baseline!

Once you have your baseline, you need to know the “rules.”  You shouldn’t wear anything, from shoes to neck, two days in a row.  This lengthens the time it takes your clothing to wear out exponentially.  Making sure you have multiple items in the categories you need makes your clothing that much more comfortable, and in the long run, saves you money.

The next step is to have a conversation about what you need in your wardrobe with someone who actually works in that field.  Make sure you take notes during this conversation – you don’t want to forget within a few days, and then need to have the conversation again.

The last step is to compare what you have with what you need.  You also want to make sure to check the quality of your clothing, and either toss or repair anything that is damaged.  If the quality of the fabric itself isn’t up to snuff, or if it is unable to be repaired due to excessive damage, you need to toss it and replace it.

With these things determined, you now have a very good idea as to what you need to purchase.  You’ll notice that nothing was specifically mentioned.  That’s because your needs are different from the person next to you.  Once you know what you need, check out the thrift stores such as Goodwill and Salvation Army before you head to a retail store.  Rumor has it that an advisor from Reading was able to obtain a full tuxedo from Goodwill for $20 - and that it was in perfect shape!

The Value of a Good Pair of Shoes

Shoes are an expensive accessory in the wardrobe of any professional (and any DeMolay.) While it may seem like a good idea to go out and buy a cheap pair of dress shoes at PayLess or a department store, odds are, in the long run, you'll end up spending more. Why? Because those cheap shoes will last a few months and you'll be buying another pair again quickly. However, if you had spent a little more at the beginning, you could have purchased a quality pair of leather shoes that will last much longer. Plus, when they need to be replaced, you can often get them repaired for a fraction of the cost.

First of all, if you're buying dress shoes, you'll want them in one of two colors - brown or black. Brown goes with nearly every color of suit (except black), but most men only own one suit - a black one. So, know what suits you most often wear before choosing a shoe color. Once you know what color to get, you start to browse for shoes themselves. There are a ton of different styles and options, but I always advise to go with the most traditional and modest option because you want to get the most use out of your purchase (and weird styles are hard to match.)

When looking at shoes, look the following things (thanks to http://www.kinowear.com/a-simple-guide-on-dress-shoes/ for these tips.) -

• Your shoes should be made of real leather and have leather soles as well. (If you buy quality leather shoes, they can be refurbished a number of times and will last forever, which is ultimately going to be less expensive than having to replace  poorly made shoes every few months.)
• The soles of well-made shoes will be stitched, not glued, to the bottom of the shoes.
• The lining in better shoes is made of high-quality calfskin or natural leather, not synthetic materials.
• Finally, check out the stitching. It should be neat and should be barely noticeable.

Kinowear also offers the following tips when actually shopping for shoes -

1. Shop after you have been out and about a bit, since feet do swell. This way you will get the most realistic measurement.
2. Shop only at a store that uses a Brannock foot measuring device for determining your exact foot size.
3. Almost everyone has one foot larger than the other, usually it is the right foot; fit the shoes to the larger right foot. Do not rely solely on the size you have always worn. Different makes can vary significantly from each other, even though the numeric size is the same. Always try them both on, walk around in them, and buy them by how they feel on your feet – not just by the size.
4. Allow a half-inch between the tips of your toes and your shoes. If the toes of the shoes are pointed, be certain there is enough room for your toes to move comfortably. Shoes should never be tight over the instep of ball of the foot. You should be able to stick your index finger in the back for wiggle room.
5. When considering an oxford-style shoe, you should not be able to tie the laces so tightly that the two edges of the shoe meet. If you can, then a narrower size is probably better for you.
6. Buy leather shoes. Though more expensive, because it is porous, leather is the best for the health and comfort of your feet. In leather shoes the foot can breathe, discouraging the build-up of bacteria.
7. Shoes should fit from the moment you try them on. Do not accept the salesperson’s, “Once you break them in they will be fine.” The man-made materials used today do not stretch significantly, but leather adapts to your foot shape quite well.
8. When shopping, wear the same type of sock you will use with the dress or sports shoes. Too heavy or too thin socks will distort the fit.

As an aside, getting your shoes repaired is a great way to keep your favorite shoes going longer. Remember, leather forms to your foot, so a good pair of well-fitting leather shoes is worth way more to you once repaired than a new set of kicks. Check out this neat video which shoes how shoes are repaired.

 

While a good pair of shoes may be more expensive in the short run, in the long run you'll be happier, as they will last longer, fit better, and be more cost effective.

Frat! ~ "Dad" Seth Anthony

18 Ways to Tie a Tie

Today's post comes to us by way of the internet. I recently came across these awesome graphics that show 18 different ways to tie a tie. The next time you have to get dressed up, try something a little different and regale your Brothers with your skills!

Frat! ~ "Dad" Seth Anthony

 

Match a Shirt, Suit, and Tie - Oh, my!

It's our final day of Blog Week here at PA DeMolay and I would be remiss if I didn't offer up something on one of my other favorite topics - men's fashion and grooming. We've spent the first four days on history, so it seems high time that we broach a more modern day subject.

During Key Man University, "Dad" Dan Loughin taught a class on the "Art of Manliness." In it, he spoke about many manly skills, such as shining your shoes, properly tucking in one's shirt, and good personal habits to keep. One question came up from the young men, but was tabled until later, as it was quite broad - "How do I match shirts, suits, and ties?"

As I explored the Art of Manliness website (www.artofmanliness.com), I came across this video that explains it quite succinctly. Check it out!

I hope you've enjoyed Blog Week and perhaps learned something along the way. See you Monday!

Frat! ~ "Dad" Seth Anthony

Black Tie Fasion

Yes, you guessed that right... "Dad" Anthony is back on his high horse about men's fashion. This time, it's thanks to a timely post by the Art of Manliness that does an excellent job explaining men's "Black Tie" dress. I'll have to give a hat tip to "Dad" Dan Loughin on this one, as it was just two weeks ago that he and I were lamenting the fact that our Elected State Officers are wearing tuxedos less and less; and, when they do, they often aren't uniform. Hey, they're JO's - they get held to a higher standard!

As someone who is often in a tux for Masonic meetings, there is something abhorrent about seeing a tux worn inappropriately. I know it might seem fun to go to prom in a tux that matches your date's dress. But, honestly, once you get into the real world, no one wears colored vests and ties anymore. James Bond was classy in his tuxedo - he wore a classic cut, that fit him well, and that wasn't trying to be innovative. Class is part of the word classic for a reason.

Anyways, here's a video summary of the post from the Art of Manliness.

 

15 Things Every Guy Should Have

Long time followers of this blog will know that I've developed an interest in how society has come to define the idea of "manhood." I also happen to have an interest in men's fashion, because it's becoming a lost art for my generation. Recently, on my way to work one day, I heard a story on the radio that piqued both of these interests. 

The story was about a man named Tom Ford, who is a highly respected authority on men's fashion. He was recently interviewed by Vogue Magazine wherein he divulged his top 15 things that all men should have. It's an interesting list that I'd like to share and give my input, mixing in some DeMolay and Masonic perspective as I do.

1. A Sense of Humor - Mr. Ford is right on with this one. Any man worth his salt must have a good sense of humor. This is also required in our fraternity. If we don't have a sense of humor about who we are and what we do, we quickly lose our perspective.

2. A Daily Read of the Newspaper - While I don't read the newspaper, I do make sure to go read news websites to get the updates of the day. More importantly, he recommends that every man read something educational everyday, and I totally agree.

3. A Sport that You Love and are Good At - I totally fail at this one, but I do support the idea. Every man should have some physical activity that he enjoys. It's good for the health benefit, plus the competitive sports can offer a good outlet for men's aggression.

4. Tweezers - What? Why tweezers? Well, the idea of "manscaping" should be taught to every guy. Take some time and work on your appearance. Tweezing those rogue hairs is an important part of keeping yourself stylish and hygienic.

5. A Good Signature Cologne - Yep! Every man needs a scent to call his own. Find something that works for you and stick with it. I have a very specific cologne that is imported from Ireland. I love it and it is certainly my signature.

6. A Well Cut, Dark Suit - Mr. Ford recommends that you have a suit constructed for you. Most of us don't have the kind of money. However, there is no excuse for a man to not take a suit to the tailor. It's perfectly okay for a man to buy a suit off the rack at a store, but do yourself a favor, and take it to the tailor. He can help correct it so it fits you even better. Never underestimate the value of a good fitting suit!

7. A Pair of Classic, Black, Lace Up Shoes - Totally! If you own a dark suit, you should also own some basic, black, leather, lace up shoes. This is a no brainer!

8. A Smart Blazer - Every DeMolay and Mason should have a good fitting blue blazer. A simple two button blazer is a must. Take it to the tailor, get it fitted, and you'll realize just how much it can become an integral part of your wardrobe as a professional.

9. The Perfect Pair of Dark Denim Jeans - One thing that many young adults realize is the value of a good wardrobe. Having a good pair of dark jeans is a total must. These pants are very versatile and can offer a lot of fashion opportunities. No, you don't need a $300 pair of jeans. Rather, just get a pair that looks nice, isn't loaded with logos or embroidery, and that fit well.

10. Lots of Crisp, White, Cotton Shirts - The basic white button up shirt is one the most important parts of a man's wardrobe. I always try to have a spare shirt, still in the package, ready to go, just in case my current one gets stained. White goes with any look and is one of the smoothest colors to match with.

11. Always New Socks and Underwear - Yes, I'm going there. While Ford recommends new one's every six months, I'm not as stringent. But, as soon as you see signs of wear, it's time to replace. It's just a matter of being clean.

12. A Classic Tuxedo - As men age, they find more and more use for a simple tux. I agree that every man should have a simple, black, two button tux, with both a vest and a cummerbund. He should also have a lay down collar tux shirt as well as a wing tip tux shirt.

13. A Day Watch with a Metal Band - Here is where Mr. Ford and I diverge. I'm not a big watch wearer. I never have been, and never will be. I don't see it as a necessity, but, I would certainly encourage all men to own a pocket watch at some point in their life. It's just a manly thing to do, plus, if you pair it with a nice chain, it's a great accessory with a tuxedo.

14. Perfect Sunglasses - Eye wear can make a great accessory to any outfit. Get some sunglasses that match your face and do the job. A simple rule for classy sunglasses is that if the frames are made of plastic, then leave them on the sports field. Stick with metal frames.

15. Perfect Teeth - My teeth are about as bad as they come, so I totally fail at this one. I also think it's sort of vain. Use your own judgement.

I hope some of my insights have proved valuable and that you will take a good look at your wardrobe and update as necessary. This is a list to aspire to. The change won't happen overnight, but if you work towards this, you're style and sense of manhood is sure to improve.

Frat! ~ "Dad" Seth Anthony 

Dressing up for DeMolay

One thing I have become personally passionate about is proper dress and attire for men in professional and social situations. At Supreme Tall Cedars Class I gave a mini-lesson to one of the DeMolays and realized that it might make valuable blog post. I've often posted links to things on this blog before, but I thought I'd take a moment and write a quick primer entitled "Dressing for DeMolay."

Let's start with the basics. If you are going to a DeMolay event, you should generally wear one of two kinds of pants - khaki or dress. It's hard to go wrong with khaki pants. They go great with polo shirts and can easily be dressed by wearing a button up shirt. Alternately, you can wear dress pants which are usually part of a suit (meaning pants that match the style and color of a jacket.) You can choose which type of shirt to wear based upon many factors. I always recommend over dressing if you don't know what to wear. You'll never feel bad wearing a button up shirt when you could have worn a polo, but you'll stick out like a sore thumb if you wear a polo when button ups are required. Stick to the basics with shirts - white or light blue. Unless you know what you're doing, don't wear striped or brightly colored shirts. If you're wearing a tie, that means you should also be wearing a blazer or jacket. Use your tie to bring your outfit together. If you're wearing a white shirt, khaki pants, and a blue blazer, go with a tie that has some blue, white, or browns in it. If you're wearing a dark colored suit, then use your tie to match to your shirt. If your suit is black, a tie with a dark color in it will go well. How long should your tie be? When tied, the end of the tip of the end of the tie should be right about where your belt buckle is. I always recommend wearing a tie chain or a tie tack to help keep your tie in place. Unless you're very experienced, you should only wear a regular tie - leave the bow ties and other variations for the pros. When buttoning your jacket, remember this phrase - "Always the middle, sometimes the top, never the bottom." This means you should always button the middle button, sometimes the top button, but never the bottom button. You should only button your jacket if you are standing, unless it's double breasted (however, steer clear of double breasted suits if you can.) As for shoes, it's pretty simple. They should be leather, or a leather like material. Athletic shoes or sneakers are immediately out. If your pants are brown, wear brown shoes. If they are black, wear black shoes. It's pretty easy. Your socks should match the color of your shoes, but be darker if possible. For example, if you are wearing brown shoes, you should wear dark brown socks. You can't get much darker than black, so if you have black shoes on you, you should also have black socks on. Under no circumstance should you be wearing white socks with leather shoes. You should always wear a belt. The color of the belt should match your shoes - brown shoes = brown belt, black shoes = black belt. Now, let's talk about accessories. Yes, even boys accessorize! You should only ever wear one lapel pin at a time. Period. The lapel pin should go on your left lapel, in the button hole if one is available. If there is no button hole, you should position it about where a button hole would be if one were present. There are two trains of thought on what kind of lapel pin to wear. The first is that you wear the pin of the group you are attending that night. This shows your support for the group and your interest. The other idea is that you should wear a pin different from the group you are going to visit. Why? Because the members already know the logo of their own group. By wearing something different, you'll have an easy way to start a conversation about another cause you support. When it comes to DeMolay regalia, remember that one is always enough - one pocket item and one neck item. Jewels should be worn on the pocket, not the lapel! If you are wearing a name tag, you shouldn't wear any jewels. Always wear your highest award unless you are participating in a special event, such as a membership jewel presentation. While this merely scratches the surface of men's fashion, it's a great place to start to learn how to dress sharp! Frat! ~ "Dad" Seth Anthony