TO FIND THE
"DeMOLAY MEMORIAL"
IN PARIS, FRANCE
Recently I was asked by one of our DeMolay families how to
find the DeMolay Memorial in Paris France, so they could visit it on their
vacation this summer. And once I did the
research, Dad Berry thought it was a good read, and would make a good blog
post, so, here ya go!
Far from authoritative, this is a combination of my
recollections and a lot of help from Google Maps, Google Earth, and Google
images. Interestingly, neither Sam nor I
had a camera on this excursion—not sure why—but I have no photos of our entire
trip to England and France in 2000!
Pre-cellphone era, so, no selfies!
First of all, there is no Memorial Grave, or heroic statue
erected to the memory of Jacques DeMolay.
He was, after all, considered to be a lapsed heretic by the Catholic
Church for over 700 years. Additionally,
there is a story (apocryphal?) told by John Robinson in his history of the
Knights Templar, called DUNGEON, FIRE AND SOWRD, that after the burning, the “ashes
had taken on a mysterious, even sacred aura.
During the night people of Paris swam out to the island to put bits of
cinders in the mouths, then swam back with the conviction that they were taking
home holy relics.” Unfortunately, Robinson
only provided a bibliography with his works, and didn’t footnote citations of
sources for these claims, hence my qualification of it as being of dubious
origin. But the idea of creating a memorial to a “heretic” in the shadow of the
great cathedral may not have been well received, but it was, ultimately,
permitted.
Here is what you are looking for. This is the plaque that was commemorated
during the Order of DeMolay’s 50th Anniversary Pilgrimage to Paris
in July of 1969.
It is located on a support wall of the bridge called Pont
Neuf, at the far end of Isle de la Cite, far from where the Cathedral of Notre
Dame stands. Pont Neuf, which means “New Bridge” is actually the oldest
standing bridge across the river Seine that cuts through the city of
Paris. Much more detail can be found in
the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pont_Neuf
Not being a French language student, my command of the
language is limited to some food items, so it opened my eyes when I understood
the relationship between Crème Brulè, and the burning of Jacques DeMolay!
On the map below, it is at the upper left hand corner of the
picture. The Cathedral of Notre Dame is
in the lower right.
The next picture is an aerial shot of that portion of the
island, and on the bridge, to the left of the label “Pont Neuf” you will see a
large square courtyard.
In the center of the courtyard is a large equestrian statue
of King Henri IV.
Google Maps errantly labels this as the “Memorial du Jacques
DeMolay.” It is close by, but this is a benign
good reason why you can’t believe everything you read on the internet!
But, you have to find this statue of Henri IV to get where
you want to go.
Here is a photo from behind the statue, taken from across
the river.
Where you want to go is BEHIND and BELOW the horse. Looking at the photo below, trace back from
the statue to the edge of the courtyard, and then look down the wall that leads
to the lower level where you can board the boats. You will see two door-like openings in the
wall… and in between them, about 10 feet above the steps, is a small bronze
plaque commemorating the burning place of Jacques DeMolay—almost as far away
from the cathedral as it could possibly be put!
But how do you get down there? (It has been 16 years since I
was there, and my memory of how I eventually found it is a little shady—it took
Dad Williamson and I nearly an hour to find it, and I thought I knew where I
was going!)
In the photo below, look at
the street lamp to the left, located at the back of the courtyard, behind the
statue. This is positioned at the top of
a long flight of steps that leads to the lower level.
The image below is taken from inside the steps leading to
the lower level, and I it will bring you through one of those openings on
either side of the plaque.
A word of caution:
This is an OK place to go in the daytime, but it had a
reputation for being a gathering place for some unsavory activities in the
evening, regardless of how well-lighted the area seems to be. I doubt much has changed in 16 years… best
avoid it after dinner time, just to err on the side of caution.
You can clearly see the plaque in the center, below:
(Note: I apologize for the size of the next two photos, but, in order to see the detail, I felt that posting them at their original size would be helpful to you.)
The group picture that follows is of a DeMolay International Pilgrimage there in 1979. Don't look for me-- I am not in the photo. I had just
gotten married, and although my wife has always supported DeMolay and my
activity with it, she didn’t want to honeymoon with a bunch of DeMolay
kids! But I DO recognize a lot of people in the
photo from around the country. I didn't come to Pennsylvania until 1981, so I didn't know a lot of people back then. I can only recognize one of our Pennsylvania brothers in it, but there may be others. (If you recognize anyone from Pennsylvania, please share that information!)
Lastly, at the bottom of this post I have included a scan of a page of the September
1969 CORDON magazine (a monthly magazine about DeMolay that was published consistently
from the 1950s until the late 1970s.) It
includes a description of the dedication of the plaque and the events
following, during the 50th Anniversary European Pilgrimage.
Edit: 12:11 AM, 5/25/2016
Upon reading this blog post, "Dad" Tom Moberly, (left) friend, mentor, co-worker at DeMolay Headquarters from 1979-1981, long-time DeMolay "full-timer" in Northern California, and inductee in the DeMolay International Hall of Fame, sent me a copy of the map he used, from National Geographic, to give people directions to the memorial plaque. He noted that he was present at the dedication in 1969. He wrote, "I was there with over 500 of my very close friends, standing in the rain before we headed to the l'Hotel de Ville (City Hall) for a reception (See invitation, below, if you can read French!) with lots of French pastries and real champagne!"
Tom related that he was also privileged to go back for the 700th Anniversary of the Martyrdom of DeMolay on March 18, 2014. He remembers commenting that "I can still smell the smoke" and nobody reacted, as if they either didn't understand or didn't have a sense of humor.
For Katie, Jake and family... happy hunting!
"Dad" Thomas R. Labagh
Executive Officer
Post Script:
"The directions worked perfectly!" (Jake found the plaque, and Katie sent this as proof.)
Post Script:
"The directions worked perfectly!" (Jake found the plaque, and Katie sent this as proof.)
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